Nuka Hiva - Taiohae

July 20, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
“a vast natural amphitheatre in decay… the deep glens that furrowed its sides appearing like enormous fissures caused by the ravages of time. Very often when lost in admiration of its beautiful, I have experienced a pang of regret that a scene so enchanting should be hidden from the world in these remote seas, and seldom meets the eyes of devoted l...
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Tahuata - Vaitahu

July 18, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
A 20 minute dinghy ride away was Vaitahu, a small village that lies along the seafront while the slopes reach up behind. On our first trip there the swell was so great I wasn’t sure how we could actually get off the dinghy, and was very grateful to a couple of workmen on the quay giving the kids a hand up, timing it between surges. There was a muse...
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Tahuata - Hanahevane Bay

July 16, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
8 nautical miles along from Hiva Oa is the island of Tauhuata. This really is the place to go for some R&R in the Marquesas. The main draw initially (after Heave..Oh! see previous post) was the sheltered bay, but there was more to it besides… a beautiful beach of golden sand and one of the few places in The Marquesas with stretches of coral that ar...
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Hiva Oa

July 14, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
“It is a narrow and small anchorage, set between low cliffy points, and opening above on a woody valley… The swell crowded into the narrow anchorage like sheep into a fold” Robert Louis Stevenson on the anchorage at Atuona, Hiva Oa Heave…oh! we quickly nicknamed this island. Our official check-in stop. The swell in the harbour was ridiculous, a...
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The Art of Fatu Hiva

July 12, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
Fatu Hiva is renowned for its wood carving. The children and I had been given directions by PELIZENO to the home of one craftsman and ended up taking a wrong turn up a track and chased back down by three large, angry dogs. Generally in the Marquesas, guard dogs (nature’s burglar alarm) either strain at the tether, or else they are all bark but stay...
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Fatu Hiva - O Lady Fair, Star of the Sea…

July 11, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
9 May: May is the month of Mary. How many times had I heard that over the years, brought up at school by Southern Irish nuns. I was surprised to be reminded of that in Fatu Hiva, as I had not appreciated, until arrival there, that The Marquesas is predominantly Catholic. On our walk back from the waterfall, Xavier got out his drone at the dock, an...
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Fatu Hiva - The Waterfall

July 10, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
One of the major attractions of anchoring at Hanavave rather than the other village of Omoa (where the gendarmerie is, so probably best avoided if you haven’t got the right paperwork!), is the waterfall, about an hour and a half track from the village. We walked through the town, greeted by every passer by and replying in kind. It was a touch surr...
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Fatu Hiva - Bay of Virgins and video

July 10, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
“The first experience can never be repeated. The first love, the first sunrise, the first South Sea island, are memories apart and touched a virginity of sense” Robert Louis Stevenson, In the South Seas Waxing lyrical in my emails home on the Pacific Crossing, my brother dubbed me the Poet of the South Seas, but when it comes to Fatu Hiva, words...
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Day 21 - Arrival in Fatu Hiva - 8 May

July 10, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
Location: Fatu Hiva, Baie des Vierges ARRIVAL TIME: 8 AM Tuesday: Three weeks at sea, our first time crossing an ocean double-handed, and dawn rising behind Fatu Hiva, silhouetting the island, was a sight for sore eyes. Isabelle had woken at first light, and together we had sat out on the bow, hands curled round cups of tea. We were struck first...
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Day 20 - Pacific Crossing - 7 May

July 06, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
Time: 9.30 am (Marquesas - Taiohae) Longtitude: 9° 25 S Latitude: 136° 45 W Course over ground: 242° Speed over ground: 6 knots True wind speed: 10 - 15 knots 135 nautical miles to go… Well, we are now in the home straights and can almost smell the land! The wind picked up overnight and we started pushing 7 knots. We had forgotten how...
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