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Arriving in Fakarava

August 15, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
The morning after Isabelle and Xavier’s birthday, we weighed anchor at 5am and headed to Fakarava. It is the administrative capital of the Tuamotus, with the main village of Rotoava at the North pass. This is primarily, historically, because the atoll has two passes, giving it greater ease of access. Now, though, it is famed for the unique phenomen...
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Kauehi - Gemini Stars

August 13, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
Ua mamao ka lani, ua kahaea luna, Ua pipi ka maka o ka hoku The heavens were fair, they stretched above, Many were the eyes of the stars. Hawaiian poet as quoted by Robert Louis Stevenson, In the South Seas The best birthday present I ever gave him, Xavier often tells me, is Isabelle, and to be in Kauehi to celebrate was a real gift. Cel...
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August 11, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
“Conceive, on a vast scale, the submerged hoop of the duck-hunter, trimmed with green rushes to conceal his head - the water within, water without - you have the image of the perfect atoll. Conceived on that has been partly plucked of its rush fringe; you have the atoll of Kauehi." - In the South Seas Robert Louis Stevenson Our passage out of Mak...
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August 09, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
We arrived in Makemo early in the morning, and it was a very tricky pass. It was slack tide, there should have been zero knots of current and yet we had 4 knots against us, so we only just made it at 3 knots, engine on full throttle. Still, better to be against that force of current that swept along from behind, potentially into a reef. We were me...
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Rairoa - The Village

August 07, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
Before joining us at Kon Tiki island, BAJKA (sailing-bajka.ch) had spent the day at the village. It was Saturday morning, the kids were running around, and, delighted to see a couple more, gave the family a tour of the island, chattering away. Ela & Lukas cleaned out the local shop of ice cream, handing them out to the children in return. Inspired.
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August 04, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
“The first experience can never be repeated. The first love, the first sunrise, the first South Sea island, are memories apart and touched a virginity of sense” Robert Louis Stevenson In the South Seas Rairora, Kon Tiki island Longtitude: 16’4 S Latitude: 1422’2 W Some things are worth repeating. Raroia was our coup de foudre in the Tuamot...
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Sailing from the Marquesas to the Tuamotus

August 02, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
“In none is the navigation so beset with perils as in that archipelago that we were now to thread. The reputation of the place is consequently infamous; insurance offices exclude it from their field, and it was not without misgiving my captain risked the Casco in such waters. I believe, indeed, it is almost understood yachts are to avoid this baffl...
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Ua Pou - The Fare Agricole (Farmer's Market)

August 01, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
Ua Pou is reputedly one of the best places in the Marquesas to provision. There is certainly a more affluent air to the village of Hakahau than anywhere else we had come across in the Marquesas, and the people noticeably warmer and friendlier in general than in Hiva Oa or Nuku Hiva, maybe as a result. The first surprise was the availability of eggs...
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Ua Pou - Chuch of Epano Peato

July 30, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
We arrived in Ua Pou on Pentecost Sunday, celebrated as a very important day in the calendar of the Catholic Church. But we didn’t get there until the afternoon and so missed morning Mass. It was still May though, and as I walked past the church there was a Marian devotion going on in full song. Had it not been half way through I would have stopped...
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Sailing from Nuku Hiva to Ua Pou

July 28, 2018  •  Leave a Comment
“It was what was called a good passage… but among the most miserable 40 hours that any one of us had ever passed. We were swung around and tossed together all the time like shot in a stage thunder box (cue description of how poorly everyone was, captain throwing up on deck…!) It was in these circumstances that we skirted the windward shore of that...
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